Corn, The Way It Was Meant To Be

If you have read Michael Pollan's The Omnivore's Dilemma, or have seen the thought-provoking documentary King Corn, then you know that Corn is generally seen as the enemy. And it's true: "Corn" (notice the big C), as grown in monoculture by huge agribusinesses has had a devastating effect on the nutrition of many things that we eat (in the form of high fructose corn syrup in large part), and is slowly (and not so slowly) killing off the small, diversified family farm as we know it. Growing anything in large monocultures year after year, be it corn, soybeans, or wheat, wreaks havoc on an ecosystem, and by slowly depriving the soil of its nutrients, requires more and more fertilizer and pesticides to keep growing in high yields over time. These fertilizers and pesticides are both harmful to the planet (in their carbon footprint) and to our health (in their toxicity). A diversified farm, on the other hand, rotates crops in different locations over time in order to preserve the nutrients within the soil, and can practice "companion planting" (planting certain crops close together for a mutual benefit) as a natural, organic method of pest control.

And yet, here I am, ready to post about corn. As much as Big Corn has upset the balance of agriculture in this country, corn itself (little c) is a wonderful summertime crop with a rich history and hundreds of heirloom varieties that are delicious and incredibly varied. That first bite of corn on the cob that was just picked that day is emblematic of summer, and I would be hard pressed to live without it. We don't need to live without corn, we just need to eat it when it's seasonal, local, responsibly grown, and actually, well, corn (and not processed into HFCS, maltodextrin, lecithin, or any other additive). The way it was meant to be . I chose to celebrate corn with the recipe below--make the most of it while it's deliciously in season, and keep it out of where it doesn't belong.

Corn Chowder (adapted from Cook's Country)

Ingredients:

• 6 ears corn
• 2 (15 ounce) cans whole kernel corn (Libby's Organic recommended)
• 5 cups low-sodium chicken broth
• 3 slices bacon
• 1 onion, chopped
• salt and pepper
• 1 pound red potatoes, scrubbed and cut into 1/2-inch dice
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 4 scallions, sliced thin

Directions:

1. Prep Corn - Cut corn cobs in half crosswise, then stand each half on its cut end. Using a sharp chef's knife, cut the kernels off the ear, one side at a time. Reserve the kernels and cobs separately. Puree canned corn and 2 cups broth in a blender (or in 2 batches in a food processor) until smooth.
2. Saute Vegetables - Cook bacon in Dutch oven over medium heat until crisp, about 8 minutes. Remove bacon and transfer to paper-towel-lined plate. Crumble when cool. Cook onion, corn kernels, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper in bacon fat until vegetables are softened and golden brown, 6-8 minutes.
3. Finish Soup - Add potatoes, corn puree, remaining broth, and reserved corn cobs to Dutch oven and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes. Discard cobs and stir in cream, scallions, and crumbled bacon. Season with salt and pepper. Serve. (Soup can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days).